Mr. Mechanic and I started by purchasing two 4-x-8 plywood sheets from Lowe’s. We needed to shiplap a 6×6 wall and one board would have left us two shiplap boards short. (Now I have extra boards for my next shiplap project.) The plywood we purchased is sized at 96 inches by 48 inches and cost $13.48 for each sheet. By cutting the plywood into 6 inch wide planks we knew that we could get 8 boards per plywood sheet! The nice folks at Lowe’s cut these boards into 6 inch wide strips for us! The plywood we chose is pre-primed and looks pink! Check out the plywood link to see exactly what we purchased. If you’re a military family like us, don’t forget to get your 10% military discount at Lowe’s.
We used a stud finder to find and mark our wall studs. I drew a pencil line from top to bottom where the studs were. We wanted to make sure that all of our nails would go into a stud.
Making sure that our plank was level, we nailed it to the studs. (the pencil marks for our studs was our guide to help us see where our studs were.) We used nails near the top and bottom of each board to help prevent any warping at a later time. We used a nail gun but you can nail it by hand too. At this point, I would finish painting the plank, making sure to fully paint the top edge of the plank too. Small seams will make it where the wall shows through. We made sure the seams that were showing were painted the same as the planks. To help achieve this, while painting my top edge and face of my planks, I also painted the wall above the plank about an inch.
We continue up the wall, attaching and painting as we went. When we got to the light fixture, Mr. Mechanic removed it.
Perfect fit; I do my happy dance!
Once all the planks were installed, we decided to finish off our edges of shiplap by installing some trim. We used inside corner wall panel molding that we purchased at Lowe’s, but you can really use any kind of molding that you like.
Note: see how I refinished these vinyl (Thermafoil) cabinets in this blog under “Thermafoil cabinet makeovers”
See all my scratches around the edges of the mirror? Ugghh, I felt so stupid and angry at myself. I knew this mirror would have to go to Over The Mountain Glass to be repaired because those bitty scratches would drive me crazy. This bargain of mine was going to cost me after all, and all because of my lack of foresight. Oh, I thought I was safe by covering my other mirror with tape. Remember mistake number 3? When I was sanding with the rotary sander I actually bumped the mirror BEYOND the tape. Both mirrors had to be replaced. This was a $130.oo mistake. By the way, the original mirrors were in almost perfect condition when I got them. JEEEZZE-O-Man was I sick!
I was bored with my “contractor grade” mirror above the double vanity in my master bathroom. I found two mirrors at the thrift store (five dollars each..yoohoo!) that I wanted to switch for the one larger mirror. This tutorial will show you step by step what I did to remove the mirror and repair the wall.
We were able to gently scrape some of the old adhesive patches off with a putty knife.
Note: Once I primed my patches, I noticed a couple of them that I needed to patch again. Sometimes you won’t notice some of the divots until they have a coat of primer on them. You just have to patch them again. ARRGH! !
I think I can make it so I'm constanly proving to myself that I can!